Cookies Policy

This site uses cookies. By continuing to browse the site you are agreeing to our use of cookies.

I accept this policy

Find out more here

Fashioning the Fold: Multiple Becomings

Brill’s MyBook program is exclusively available on BrillOnline Books and Journals. Students and scholars affiliated with an institution that has purchased a Brill E-Book on the BrillOnline platform automatically have access to the MyBook option for the title(s) acquired by the Library. Brill MyBook is a print-on-demand paperback copy which is sold at a favorably uniform low price.

Access this chapter

+ Tax (if applicable)

Chapter Summary

Nowhere is the constantly vibrating dynamic of the fold more visible and palpable than in the pleats, creases, draperies, furrows, bows and ribbons of fashion. Whilst in art history, the fold is connected to the expression of e-motion (pathos), in fashion the fold is engaged in a game of concealing and revealing the body inmotion (eros). The fluid, flowing, flexible folds of high fashion reveal a constantly closing in or opening up of the body to the world. Whereas the flexible fold of early twentieth century designs (Mariano Fortuny, Madeleine Vionnet and Madame Grès) can be understood as positioning the body differently in time through movement, the stiff fold of sculptured forms expressed through high-tech fabrics deterritorialize the body, for instance in the designs of Japanese designers (Issey Miyake, Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto) and the Dutch baroque fashion of Viktor & Rolf. For Deleuze, the fold, or the process of folding, is a process of becoming. In so far as matter can fold, it is capable of becoming. In fashioning the fold, experimental fashion designers create conditions to transform normative images of human bodies and actualize multiple becomings. This article argues that the relational notion of the fold can help us understand how avantgarde fashion opens up new kinds of subjectivity.



Can't access your account?
  • Tools

  • Add to Favorites
  • Printable version
  • Email this page
  • Recommend to your library

    You must fill out fields marked with: *

    Librarian details
    Your details
    Why are you recommending this title?
    Select reason:
    This Deleuzian Century — Recommend this title to your library
  • Export citations
  • Key

  • Full access
  • Open Access
  • Partial/No accessInformation